January 2008


Taiwan was a shopper’s paradise. This, together with a decent disposable income, made it the ideal place for me to spend six years of my life.

By the time I left at the start of 2006 I had a fine collection of clothing mixing some designer labels, funky street wear, and cheap socks. Shopping for clothes was definitely something I missed a lot when I returned back to South Africa.

Besides being a student again last year and therefore pretty poor, I just did not find the same wide range of inexpensive and trendy clothing. As a result I spent almost no money on clothes last year, in fact, I only bought one cool hooded sweater and three pairs of socks. If not for the hoody it would have been the most bland year for my closet since primary school.

So after not really shopping much for a year, and then traveling for another year and also not shopping much for clothing, I recently started going mad at all the brilliant clothing stalls at markets around Bangkok, especially at Chatuchak Weekend Market. Not since Taiwan have I seen such an enormous selection of cute, hip, sexy and cheap T-shirts, Bordeaux staples.

Here are a couple of examples. Cool, don’t you think?

Megan waited for Bordeaux to finish telling his story before beginning her own. “I used to get a ride to school with Bordeaux, because my mother worked. In the morning, I would have to walk over to his house, and wait in the kitchen while he and his sister had their breakfast. His mother would make them a bowl of warm pap in the morning. I would see this,” Megan stated, pausing dramatically, “having just eaten my bowl of cold cereal at home. But not only would his mother make them warm pap every morning, but when they came into the kitchen, she would send them outside to call for the fairies. Then when they went outside, she would sprinkle their pap with little fairy tracks.”
“Oh Bordeaux!” Tanya exclaimed. “Really?”
“What are fairy tracks?” I asked.
“Just what Megan said. My mom would make us bowls of warm pap, and set them out for us on the table. Then we’d have to go outside, into the garden, and call for the fairies. While we were out there, my mother would sprinkle little rows of colored sugar on top of our porridge. We’d come back in, and there they would be, the feetjie spoor, little fairy tracks, on our porridge.”
“Oh Bordeaux,” Tanya said, catching her breath after laughing for a moment. “No wonder you’re gay.”

- From The Boy in the Volkspele Dress, Alexander Santillanes

I was raised on two kinds of breakfasts, pap and cereal. Pap is the Afrikaans term for porridge. It was usually made with maize meel and it came in three forms, as a sludgy white porridge, the brown Maltabela porridge or as krummel pap, which was a drier type of porridge, it literally means crumble porridge.

On odd days of the week my mother served us porridge for breakfast and on even days it was cereal. To this day, odd days are still not my favorite days of the week, as I strongly disliked porridge in all its manifestations. I could not stand the stuff.

I clearly remember feelings of dismay and abject horror when a bowl of porridge was placed in front of me. A treeless island floating in an ocean of milk. The milk was supposed to cool the hot porridge. To my youthful eyes it just looked gross.

One wonders why my mother did not just stick to cereal altogether. She would have made both our lives a lot easier.
But my mother is a no-nonsense kind of lady who does not take too keenly to persnickety kids. She is also a fairly wise lady, as most mothers are. So she conjured up a marvelous plan to wheedle me into not only eating, but also enjoying pap.

On one of these nasty odd mornings, when I begrudgingly trudged into the kitchen, she told my siblings and I to run into the garden and call the fairies and gnomes to join us for breakfast. I did not quite understand what was going on. I felt simultaneously baffled and excited.

The three of us, my younger sister and brother and me, ran into the garden and began calling, “Fairies! Dwarves! Come out now!”

After a few moments my mom called us back into the house, “Come look here! In the kitchen, in your breakfast bowls. Quick!”

We hurried into the kitchen and as I drew nearer to my bowl I noticed bright candy colored dots, slowly melting into the bowl of steaming porridge. “They were, here, but they left again,” said mom, “But see, they left their tracks on your porridge!”

I was ecstatic and quite literally tickled pink. Fairy and gnome tracks in my porridge? They must like it! And it looks fantastic! I sat down and enjoyed my bowl of porridge with a brilliant smile on my face.

Two days later my mom sent us outside again. And again we returned to find fantastic trails of fairy tracks in our bowls.

This became one of my most beloved childhood traditions. We never let my mom forget to send us outside to call for fairies. I used to run and call into the prettiest flowers and the thickest growth of ferns, where I suspected our magical friends with the decorated tracks lived.

Some years later, while snooping through the kitchen cabinets, I discovered a bottle of cake decorating sprinkles. Somehow I never drew any conclusion between the fairy tracks on my breakfast and the sprinkles on my cupcakes, but this day, something clicked.

I confronted my mother with the evidence and she admitted that there never were any fairies or gnomes traipsing through my bowls of porridge. I guess I was old enough to know, by this point I did not believe in Santa or the Easter Bunny anymore (although I believed in the Tande Muis or Tooth Mouse, our take on the Tooth Fairy). I finally discovered that the only fairy was my mother, and her prints were a bottle of cake sprinkles.

Instead of growing bitter, however, I decided to continue humoring my younger siblings with this ritual. And it still made eating porridge a lot more attractive.

In the summer of ’86 we moved from Paarl in the Western Cape to Hoedspruit in the former Northern Transvaal. From a yard with big oak trees and rose gardens, we relocated to one with trees that had thorns on it and the danger of snakes.

It still counts as one of the most traumatic experiences of my life. I hated the new town. It was ugly, dusty, and dull. I was not making any friends at my school since I was the only kid who did not hunt or cared to hunt and did want to grow up to be a farmer. I felt unsafe in our new house on a plot where there were no street lamps to light up the yard at night and the place was crawling with enormous bugs and snakes. I stopped playing with all my favorite toys. My best friend was still in Paarl and the highly imaginative stories we made up just did not seem fun anymore. I was a miserable 11-year old. I felt isolated and enormously downhearted.

On one of those first porridge mornings my mother sent us outside again. I was in a terrible mood and started making a scene, but my mother firmly asked me to go outside and do as she asked, for the sake of my little brother.

Dejectedly I went into our ‘dangerous’ new garden, shouting for the fairies and gnomes to come out in an angry voice, swearing under my breath (I remember thinking ‘fart’ and ‘crap’ were nasty words, so I kept on saying it). All of a sudden it seemed like they were to blame for all that was wrong in my life. And I started to REALLY hate porridge again.

I think my brother came round to who the fairy really was not long after that. Either I showed him the bottle to be spiteful, or perhaps living in a farming community with all these gun-crazed kids was just not conducive to a childhood where fairies and gnomes were part of one’s daily life.

Not long after all of that, the fairy tracks tradition ended altogether and the bottle of sprinkles was relegated to the back of some cabinet.

I was well on my way to high school, when sometimes I would wander off to swampy parts of the farm where the ferns were growing wild and thick, gently lifting up some leaves to see if I could catch a glimpse of a fairy, or a gnome, or an elf, or even a goblin. I was still terribly unhappy and secretly I was hoping that there would be some place where I could go to escape the realities of life in a conservative rural community.

I never did see any magical creatures. But what I initially feared so much, the ruggedness of the farm, the trees, bushes, marshes, and river became my escape and I would wander around forever on weekends and after school, and disappear into my head. I still have dreams where I am walking around on the farm. They are very vivid, and I wake up from them thinking that it is all still there.

As for porridge, it is still not my favorite meal, but I sometimes have it in a flurry of nostalgia whenever I go home, sans sprinkles.

(The pictures here are not of porridge as I know it, but Thai rice porridge, which I curiously enough have grown quite fond of. I have it once a week at a stand on my way to school. The consistency is quite similar and even the taste is somewhat reminiscent of what I had as a child, if you leave out all the condiments.)

Once in a while an exceptionally good bad movie shows on our only movie channel. When one of these come around we order pizza and sit on the bed eating it while tearing the movie apart. We’ve watched ‘She’s the Man’ and ‘Material Girls’ amongst others like this. There’s nothing like ordering generic pizza and watching generic nonsense on a Sunday night.

Lately there have been absolutely now good bad movies. They’re all just really bad, so we have not been having any pizza. But we were craving pizza. I’ve been craving pizza, not fast food pizza, but fresh, homemade pizza, ever since I read this entry weeks ago on Food To Nourish the Spirit and Soothe the Soul.

Staring at the dark green pepper corns in Alexander’s lunch at Greyhound Saturday afternoon, I started thinking about dinner, (yes, I am the kind of person who can eat a perfectly satisfying and scrumptious meal and already be thinking about the next one plus what will be eaten for snacks in between the two).

In the fridge we had asparagus, a very agreeable piece of Morbier that Tim picked up while visiting (thanks Tim), one chicken breast, some kaffir lime leaves, leaves and lemon grass. In my mind’s eye these ingredients plus a couple of others began to come together in a two sublime pizzas. All I needed to pick up were some fresh pepper corns, mushrooms and Mozzarella cheese.

And here are the results of my lunchtime fantasy.

Two gorgeous thin-crusted pizzas (I don’t like thick crusts). One with Morbier, fresh asparagus, and mushrooms, the other with a stir-fried combination of a little lemon grass, one kaffir lime leave, one tiny red chil, one clove garlic, fresh peppercorn and chicken. The latter subtly blended some of my favorite Thai flavors- it was perfect!

I thought I messed up the dough because I could not quite follow the original instructions (I have no kitchen scale), but it came out perfectly. It’s really easy to make, so I will share my way, which is pretty much the same as the recipe I used, of making thin-crusted pizza dough.

Arrange:

1 cup all purpose flour

1 teaspoon dry yeast

1/2 tablespoon white sugar

1 teaspoon salt

150 ml cold water

1 tablespoon softened butter

Make:

Mix the dry ingredients well in a mixing bowl. Add the cold water and mix on medium speed with an electric mixer for about two minutes (use the dough hooks on your mixer). Increase the speed and add the butter, mix for about 15 minutes. I have a hand-held mixture, so this process was quite excruciating.

Pour this thick gooey mixture into an airtight container and leave for an hour.

After an hour, preheat the oven to 250C. Fflour a working surface and your hands and start working the dough, add more flour and work it until it is not sticky anymore and quite elastic. Make two balls and roll them out thinly. Put the pizza on an oven pan that’s been lined with a cookie sheet. Brush with olive oil, add Mozzarella and rest of the topic and bake for under ten minutes until the crust has been lightly browned. Remove from the oven and take pleasure in gobling up your home-made pizza.

Suggestions for thin crusted pizzas:

- After mixing the dough and leaving it in the container I thought it was going to rise, but it didn’t, so I thought it flopped, but this was not the case, I think. It just became rather bubbly and working in the flour created a very nice dough.

- If you want a thicker crust you should not roll it out too thinly.

Here’s what we had for dinner.

Peanut butter curry with sweet potatoes, broccoli, and brown rice noodles. I’m not going to tell you how I made it though because (pick the correct answer):

a) It’s a family secret.

b) I actually have no idea.

c) I’m being selfish.

For dessert we had All-American Brownies (according to the recipe I used) and ice-cream. Usually I leave the task of making brownies to Alexander who is an ace brownie maker (he uses this same recipe that he got from his mom). Today, however, was the first time I made brownies, and because I cannot think of any good reason not to, I will share this recipe.

To make All-American Brownies, Bordeaux style, you will need:

1 quarter stick butter

6 (not 2) pieces of unsweetened baking chocolate, chopped into pieces

1 cup white sugar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

2 eggs

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

salt (which I forgot to add, so actually don’t bother with it)

2 small Toblerone bars

Make:

Preheat the over to 180C and prepare an oven pan or bread pan, I used a silicone bread pan. Melt the butter and chocolate over medium heat. Let it cool for a couple of minutes and stir in the sugar and vanilla. Add the eggs one at a time and mix. Add the flour. When everything is mixed, add some chopped bits of the Toblerone. Pour into the pan. Stick some Toblerone onto the mixture and bake for about 20 minutes until a toothpick inserted comes out… clean! Cool, cut, gobble up.

The original recipe, as you may have guessed did not call for any Toblerone. So now you may ask why oh why do you always have to go and throw Toblerone into just about any sweet thing you ever make? The reason is simple, one can never get enough Toblerone. Never. I have a friend who does not care much for it. But I think she has problems. As for me, I love it.

It’s natillas!

Visiting Alexander’s family in Albuquerque, New Mexico, last year I got so excited about all the mouth-watering New Mexican dishes that for Christmas they sent me this exciting and instructive cook book with recipes from their home state.

It gives a history of NM cooking and includes a wide variety of recipes to reflect the state’s rich cultural heritage, from green chili to moussaka. Awesome! I started using it the moment I opened it and experimented with quite a few recipes like the signature New Mexican green chili (I love this stuff), chili rejenos, Navajo fry bread and green chili enchiladas. All lip-smacking goodness.

Yesterday I tried my hand at natillas, a custard dessert with a Spanish origin. Alexander told me he has a great aunt who used to make really delectable natillas, so I was a nervous about how my efforts would come out.

Oh, but no fear was necessary. It came out just lovely. A rich, pale yellow custard that begged to be savored and eaten in large quantities. Mmm, give me more of that!

So here is how you make natillas, and you really should try it. It’s decadent!

Collect:

500ml full cream milk

4 eggs, separated

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

3/4 cup sugar

pinch of salt

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

nutmeg to garnish

Make:

Mix the egg yolks, one cup of the milk and flour well and set aside.

Pour the rest of the milk into a saucepan with the sugar and salt and scald, stirring constantly so the sugar dissolve.

Remove from heat and gradually stir it into the egg yolk mixture. Return to low and heat and stir constantly until the mixture is thick and creamy.

Remove from heat, stir in vanilla and set aside to cool. In the meantime, beat the egg whites until they are stiff, but not dry. Fold them into the cooled mixture. Pour it all into a bowl, sprinkles with some nutmeg and chill (it) before serving.

When eating, make sure you scrape your bowl properly to let none of this goodness go to waste.

Suggestions and tips for making natillas:

- The recipe book suggested it should take about 30 minutes for the mixture to thicken, but on our gas stove and in the wok it took about 10 minutes, so watch it carefully.

- You can decorate your servings natillas with some sprinkles or some more nutmeg and I am certain that dropping some chocolate shavings would add to the attraction.

Ah! 2008 is here and for some reason that idea me pretty excited. I hope everybody had a a sweet festive season spent with family and friends.

We had a busy and enjoyable holiday with a friend of Alexander’s coming to visit us for the holiday week. We spent some time traveling around Prachuap Kiri Khan en Petchaburi provinces and showing Tim around Bangkok. Visit I am a Viking for Tim’s excellent account of events and keep your eyes open for some more brilliant photography taken on our trip at Primitive Culture in the next couple of days. I’ll let them do the writing about our vacation as I did not take enough pictures to warrant an entry.

These two pictures were pretty much the only ones taken by me on the trip. The first is of Alexander and Tim enjoying the sunset view from our tent at Lake Kaen Kratcheng, the second is the beach view from our hotel at Aow Noi.

As I mentioned earlier, for some reason I am pretty excited about the New Year. It started very relaxed, we decided to stay in with a movie after Tim left for his New Year’s flight and took Tuesday real easy. And since Wednesday we’ve been back to work and things have been dragging a bit ever since. I was not made for work.

So I think I will have one resolution for this year. To write more often. Write about food, about sewing and crafts, and just some general bits.

I am working on a little project to do some cooking entries on food from the four countries I lived in over the past year- South Africa, Taiwan, the United States, and Thailand. I may also do some entries about some of the countries I visited between these- Kenya, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam.

Keep your eyes out for these, I hope I will not become terribly lazy and disappoint.

Happy 2008!

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