Photography


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I was going to do a recipe blog of this fabulous and decadent South African treat, but between a cat lost and found oceans away from here, a bag that needed finishing and preparing for a visit and two days on Ko Samet I did not get to any of that. So for the recipe I followed, go visit Jeanne’s site, Cooksister. She did a fine job of blogging about it and to her goes all the credit for how great mine came out (my boyfriend’s words- not mine!).

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I made two tarts, but there was not enough dulce de leche for the second tart, so I whipped up some more cream and mixed in some peppermint essence and peppermint crisp for a truly sinful topping.

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Now we are off for two days on Ko Samet. All this holidaying recently have kept us busy and we need a break! I finally finished my sister’s bag that I’ve been promising her for about 7 months and will take it with for a shoot. Expect some pictures next week.

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Although this was my third trip to Cambodia, I have never been to the coast before. So when we started planning our trip we were very certain that we wanted to see some of the country’s coast this time round. We were researching Sihanoukville, when we discovered that somewhat to the east of this famous beach city lies Kep.

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Kep, allegedly, used to be the place to be from the thirties to the late sixties. The glamorous and wealthy of yesteryear all owned attractive modernist villas and enjoyed weekends of luxury in this see-and-be-seen coastal town. But then came the Khmer Rouge with their penchant for destruction and years of civil war and Kep was abandoned. It’s inhabitants fled or were killed and their villas used as target practice by distruction-crazed soldiers.

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Recently, however, Kep has been having some sort of a revival. Its close proximity to Phnom Penh, loads of giant crab found in the bay and a need for less crowded coastal property seems to have caused a teeny tourism boom. A couple of very attractive guest houses have sprung up in the hills behind the town. Some new and some in renovated former villas.

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We decided to stay spend our two nights on the coast at Veranda Natural Resort, a beautiful sprawling resort set in the hills behind the town’s crab market with views of the ocean and some Vietnamese islands in the distance. Our bungalow had two ‘rooms’. One was in the bungalow and the other was part of our veranda. There was also a hammock and we enjoyed lovely ocean views and were visited by a giant gecko on our second night.

The grounds at Veranda was something amazing. The province of Kampot where Kep is, is known for its rich soil and fresh produce and it was very obvious from all the fruits growing in abundance in our garden.

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Bananas, mangoes, papayas, pineapples, chillies and guavas seemed to be growing wild.

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There were numerous coconut trees as well as loads of jackfruit trees. Their enormous fruits dangling precariously from the branches.

And of course Kampot’s most famed export was also to be found in our garden.

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Kampot pepper. Most definitely the best fresh pepper I have ever tasted. Spicy, but not overwhelming, and a floral hint that leaves you wanting more. We made sure that we ordered at least one dish with fresh Kampot pepper whenever we dined.

Whereas Kampot province is famous for pepper, Kep is nowadays famous for crab. Hence the statue in the first image. The crab is caught pretty much right in front of your eyes at the crab market. From the side the market looks like homes dropping into the deep ocean, but the water is actually quite shallow. While sitting inside any of the numerous restaurants in the market you can watch the ladies of the markets wading out into the ocean and dragging back the crab cages.

On weekends, day trippers from the capital flock to the market to dine on mountains of crab and buy some fresh crab to take with back to the city.

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We came for lunch both days we were in Kep. The food was incredible. Both times we ordered the crab curry with fresh pepper. It was a divine dish. I literally sat with one crab leg for about 10 minutes, savoring the sauce, the meat and the pepper. I think I could happily eat this everyday. It was incredible. We also enjoyed some fresh squid and fish but nothing came close to the crab.

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Sadly we had to leave for Phnom Penh again after only two nights for visa business. But I know that I will have to go back to Kep to enjoy the relaxed atmosphere, the abundance of fruit, and of course, the crab and the pepper again.

At around nine Sunday evening we board the overnight train heading for Lao Cai. We were to spend the night in a six-berth ‘hard’ sleeper. I was concerned for my comfort at first, but it turned out the cramped berth was not all that bad and after Alexander got one of our fellow travelers to turn of the music he was playing for all on his phone we had a fairly comfortable rest.

We arrived at Lao Cai just after five the next morning, a pleasant chill in the air. After some initial waiting for our minibus to fill up we finally started the slow drive up the mountain pass to Sapa, a scenic ninety minute journey, passing terraced rice paddies and local villages on the way.

Sapa was a bit of an old hill station back in the day, where homesick colonialists came to soak up the cool mountain air. Today it draws throngs of tourists curious to see the ethnic minorities from the surrounds come and peddle their wares in town, or adventurous hikers. Or, in our case, people who miss icy cold weather.

And that is exactly what we got as we stepped of the minibus. I was instantly deeply satisfied with the idea of spending a whole day and night here and often saying “I’m freezing!”

Sapa is spectacular. It is surrounded by high mountains and deep valleys, covered in villages, terraced farmlands and rice fields. Mist and clouds hung over much of the valley and area, which made seeing Vietnam’s highest mountain, Fan Xi Pan, impossible. But the views from town were still mighty impressive.

After checking into a hotel and a very hot shower we bundled up and strolled around town. Everywhere we went we were hassled by good-humored Hmong and Red Dzau ladies to buy hand stitched blankets or bags and silver. They are very persistent and would follow us around for long distances, tugging at our arms and saying “Looky-looky. You buy something for me?” I’m usually easily bothered by touts and people bothering me with their goods, but these ladies never failed to make me giggle with their persistence and simple and confusing English questions.

We went for lunch at Baguettes et Chocolate, a restaurant training less-fortunate youths for the hospitality industry. For dessert we enjoyed little chocolate and wine tarts; which reminded us both of the recent HHDD challenge I hosted. Afterwards we went back to the hotel for an afternoon nap.

I awoke much later to find that thick blankets of fog were rolling into town. Within minutes the whole town was covered and it became almost impossible to see to the other side of the street! I made my way to a bakery across the street and picked up some hot chocolate and a chocolate roll to enjoy in bed.

Much later we again ventured out into the foggy streets to a restaurant where a warm fireplace invited us in for dinner.

After a breakfast of warm beef pho we enjoyed coffee at a very informal little shop in an overgrown orchid garden. The menu consisted of pretty much only coffee, ranging from numbers one to nine. I asked the proprietress what nine was and she answered that it was very good Vietnam coffee. We ordered. We were not disappointed.

The coffee was thick and rich with a cocoa aftertaste, which was slightly enhanced by adding a little bit of fresh milk. We slowly sipped, while enjoying the garden.

Later we wandered through the local fresh produce market, admiring all the wonderful things on sale an trying some local snacks.


Upstairs from the wet market is a dry market where some Hmong and Dzau ladies sell blankets, bags, skirts and silver. I bought some fabric and Alexander a Hmong blanket.

Much later, after perusing through his shopping bag, a Red Dzau lady insists that he buys from her as well. “You buy Hmong, now you buy for Red Dzau. Looky, Red Dzau all hand make, I make, by hand. Hmong, looky, machine!” Even though I can see almost equal parts hand and machine work in both I decide to make her happy and a buy an embroidered bag.

At six in the afternoon, the whole town again disappearing behind drapes of fog, we get back on a minibus, heading for Lao Cai this time. This time we got berths in a four-sleeper, with a much more comfortable mattress and it is not long after the train pulled away that the steady rocking and comfortable bed make me drift off.

It’s just after five the next morning when we arrive back in dark and atmospheric Hanoi. This time the city is just waking up, and from the station we head straight to a pho corner for steamy bowls of chicken pho for breakfast.

I got the most brilliant Valentine’s gifts from my boyfriend yesterday.

It came in this super funky and retro Thai-style lunch box. It is a tin affair with stacked compartments, usually filled with rice and meat dishes. I’ve wanted to get one ever since I first laid eyes on them, and now I have one. Lucikly mine did not come with rice and fried chicken (not that I don’t like rice and fried chicken, but as romantic gestures go, they are not at the top of my list).

My lunch box came filled with an assortment of chocolates, cookie cutters, cake decorating goods and chocolate-orange hand cream. Each tray held a different surprise! Isn’t it just too cute?

And now I have a really wicked container for some of my old and new baking accessories.

Looking at all of this it is quite clear what his Valentine’s message to me was. More ‘rommel in die trommel’ for me and more cupcakes and cookies for him!

Sugar cookies with chocolate chips and frosty vanilla iced tea. Enjoyed at the end of an otherwise bland and muggy Tuesday.

Megan waited for Bordeaux to finish telling his story before beginning her own. “I used to get a ride to school with Bordeaux, because my mother worked. In the morning, I would have to walk over to his house, and wait in the kitchen while he and his sister had their breakfast. His mother would make them a bowl of warm pap in the morning. I would see this,” Megan stated, pausing dramatically, “having just eaten my bowl of cold cereal at home. But not only would his mother make them warm pap every morning, but when they came into the kitchen, she would send them outside to call for the fairies. Then when they went outside, she would sprinkle their pap with little fairy tracks.”
“Oh Bordeaux!” Tanya exclaimed. “Really?”
“What are fairy tracks?” I asked.
“Just what Megan said. My mom would make us bowls of warm pap, and set them out for us on the table. Then we’d have to go outside, into the garden, and call for the fairies. While we were out there, my mother would sprinkle little rows of colored sugar on top of our porridge. We’d come back in, and there they would be, the feetjie spoor, little fairy tracks, on our porridge.”
“Oh Bordeaux,” Tanya said, catching her breath after laughing for a moment. “No wonder you’re gay.”

- From The Boy in the Volkspele Dress, Alexander Santillanes

I was raised on two kinds of breakfasts, pap and cereal. Pap is the Afrikaans term for porridge. It was usually made with maize meel and it came in three forms, as a sludgy white porridge, the brown Maltabela porridge or as krummel pap, which was a drier type of porridge, it literally means crumble porridge.

On odd days of the week my mother served us porridge for breakfast and on even days it was cereal. To this day, odd days are still not my favorite days of the week, as I strongly disliked porridge in all its manifestations. I could not stand the stuff.

I clearly remember feelings of dismay and abject horror when a bowl of porridge was placed in front of me. A treeless island floating in an ocean of milk. The milk was supposed to cool the hot porridge. To my youthful eyes it just looked gross.

One wonders why my mother did not just stick to cereal altogether. She would have made both our lives a lot easier.
But my mother is a no-nonsense kind of lady who does not take too keenly to persnickety kids. She is also a fairly wise lady, as most mothers are. So she conjured up a marvelous plan to wheedle me into not only eating, but also enjoying pap.

On one of these nasty odd mornings, when I begrudgingly trudged into the kitchen, she told my siblings and I to run into the garden and call the fairies and gnomes to join us for breakfast. I did not quite understand what was going on. I felt simultaneously baffled and excited.

The three of us, my younger sister and brother and me, ran into the garden and began calling, “Fairies! Dwarves! Come out now!”

After a few moments my mom called us back into the house, “Come look here! In the kitchen, in your breakfast bowls. Quick!”

We hurried into the kitchen and as I drew nearer to my bowl I noticed bright candy colored dots, slowly melting into the bowl of steaming porridge. “They were, here, but they left again,” said mom, “But see, they left their tracks on your porridge!”

I was ecstatic and quite literally tickled pink. Fairy and gnome tracks in my porridge? They must like it! And it looks fantastic! I sat down and enjoyed my bowl of porridge with a brilliant smile on my face.

Two days later my mom sent us outside again. And again we returned to find fantastic trails of fairy tracks in our bowls.

This became one of my most beloved childhood traditions. We never let my mom forget to send us outside to call for fairies. I used to run and call into the prettiest flowers and the thickest growth of ferns, where I suspected our magical friends with the decorated tracks lived.

Some years later, while snooping through the kitchen cabinets, I discovered a bottle of cake decorating sprinkles. Somehow I never drew any conclusion between the fairy tracks on my breakfast and the sprinkles on my cupcakes, but this day, something clicked.

I confronted my mother with the evidence and she admitted that there never were any fairies or gnomes traipsing through my bowls of porridge. I guess I was old enough to know, by this point I did not believe in Santa or the Easter Bunny anymore (although I believed in the Tande Muis or Tooth Mouse, our take on the Tooth Fairy). I finally discovered that the only fairy was my mother, and her prints were a bottle of cake sprinkles.

Instead of growing bitter, however, I decided to continue humoring my younger siblings with this ritual. And it still made eating porridge a lot more attractive.

In the summer of ’86 we moved from Paarl in the Western Cape to Hoedspruit in the former Northern Transvaal. From a yard with big oak trees and rose gardens, we relocated to one with trees that had thorns on it and the danger of snakes.

It still counts as one of the most traumatic experiences of my life. I hated the new town. It was ugly, dusty, and dull. I was not making any friends at my school since I was the only kid who did not hunt or cared to hunt and did want to grow up to be a farmer. I felt unsafe in our new house on a plot where there were no street lamps to light up the yard at night and the place was crawling with enormous bugs and snakes. I stopped playing with all my favorite toys. My best friend was still in Paarl and the highly imaginative stories we made up just did not seem fun anymore. I was a miserable 11-year old. I felt isolated and enormously downhearted.

On one of those first porridge mornings my mother sent us outside again. I was in a terrible mood and started making a scene, but my mother firmly asked me to go outside and do as she asked, for the sake of my little brother.

Dejectedly I went into our ‘dangerous’ new garden, shouting for the fairies and gnomes to come out in an angry voice, swearing under my breath (I remember thinking ‘fart’ and ‘crap’ were nasty words, so I kept on saying it). All of a sudden it seemed like they were to blame for all that was wrong in my life. And I started to REALLY hate porridge again.

I think my brother came round to who the fairy really was not long after that. Either I showed him the bottle to be spiteful, or perhaps living in a farming community with all these gun-crazed kids was just not conducive to a childhood where fairies and gnomes were part of one’s daily life.

Not long after all of that, the fairy tracks tradition ended altogether and the bottle of sprinkles was relegated to the back of some cabinet.

I was well on my way to high school, when sometimes I would wander off to swampy parts of the farm where the ferns were growing wild and thick, gently lifting up some leaves to see if I could catch a glimpse of a fairy, or a gnome, or an elf, or even a goblin. I was still terribly unhappy and secretly I was hoping that there would be some place where I could go to escape the realities of life in a conservative rural community.

I never did see any magical creatures. But what I initially feared so much, the ruggedness of the farm, the trees, bushes, marshes, and river became my escape and I would wander around forever on weekends and after school, and disappear into my head. I still have dreams where I am walking around on the farm. They are very vivid, and I wake up from them thinking that it is all still there.

As for porridge, it is still not my favorite meal, but I sometimes have it in a flurry of nostalgia whenever I go home, sans sprinkles.

(The pictures here are not of porridge as I know it, but Thai rice porridge, which I curiously enough have grown quite fond of. I have it once a week at a stand on my way to school. The consistency is quite similar and even the taste is somewhat reminiscent of what I had as a child, if you leave out all the condiments.)